It's perhaps useful, I thought, to consider the thousands upon thousands of Iranian pilgrims who weekly descend on the shrine and the fact that they represent the many Iranians to whom the Islamic Republic, and everything it represents, remains central to the concept of Iran.We cannot even hold hands with our girlfriends.""It is my life," said another man, "and if I want to drink whisky I should be able to drink whisky."Chatting with two young women and a young man in a tea-house I was asked if I thought Iran was boring."No, not at all," I answered.
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